Installation Overview / At a Glance

  • Difficulty:

    Easy–Intermediate. A facilities or maintenance crew can handle it with three common tools; the bracket set does the engineering for you.

  • Typical time:

    No fixed number — plan for your first pole to be the slowest while you learn the bracket assembly, after which it becomes a fast, repeatable rhythm. Ladder or lift access to the mounting height is usually the biggest time factor, not the hardware.

  • Tools needed:

    Hammer or mallet, straight-edge (flat-head) screwdriver, and a ladder. That's the whole list.

  • Hardware:

    The pole bracket set supplied with your banner — fiberglass reinforced rods (the banner arms), aluminum bracket bases, clevis pins with kickout rings, protective rubber end caps, 40″ stainless steel quick-release band clamps, and nylon ties.

  • Critical rule #1:

    Tighten the band clamps with a screwdriver only — never an electric driver, which over-tightens the clamp and causes breakage.

  • Critical rule #2:

    The top bracket's arrow faces UP and the bottom bracket's arrow faces DOWN. The banner's tensioning depends on it.

Prefer not to put a crew on ladders? BigSigns can coordinate installation — request a free mockup and quote or call 800.790.7611 and mention install support

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Before You Begin: Plan the Pole, the Height & the Permissions

Ten minutes of planning saves you a second trip up the ladder.

• Confirm you're allowed to use the pole. This is planning advice every crew should hear: if the poles belong to a city, utility, or property manager, get written permission or the required banner permit before install day. Most municipalities have banner programs with rules about placement and duration — campus and private-property poles are usually simpler, but check with whoever owns them.

• Pick your mounting height. The top bracket sets the banner's height on the pole, so decide it before you climb: high enough to clear pedestrians, vehicles, and sight lines, and consistent from pole to pole so a whole run of banners reads as one clean installation.

• Know your banner size. The distance between your top and bottom brackets is set by the banner itself, so have the banner (or its dimensions) on hand before mounting anything. Not sure what size fits your poles? Our pole banner sizes guide covers standard dimensions for streets, schools, and campuses.

• Single or double? One bracket set displays one double-sided banner projecting from the pole. If you want banners on both sides of the pole, order double sets — the install has one small difference, covered below.

• Count your hardware. Before you head out, lay out the kit and confirm you have everything for every pole: rods, bracket bases, clevis pins, kickout rings, end caps, band clamps, and nylon ties.

What's in the Pole Bracket Set

Every piece in the kit has a job:

  •  Fiberglass reinforced rods (fiberglass arms)

    The horizontal arms the banner's pole pockets slide over. Fiberglass flexes instead of bending or snapping, which is what you want on an object that lives in the wind.

  • Aluminum bracket bases

    The mounts that hold each rod and strap to the pole. Each base carries the directional arrow that governs banner tension.

  • Clevis pins & kickout rings

    The pin locks each rod into its bracket base; the ring secures the pin so it can't back out.

  • Protective rubber end caps

    Cap the outer end of each rod.

  • 40″ stainless steel quick-release band clamps

    Wrap around the pole and cinch each bracket in place. Stainless means they can live outdoors; quick-release means banner-season changeovers don't require cutting anything off the pole.

  • Nylon ties (tie wraps)

    Secure the banner's pole pockets and bottom grommet so the banner can't creep along the rods.

Tools You'll Need

This is the entire tool list — if your crew has a maintenance closet, you already own all three:

  • Hammer or mallet

    To tap the clevis pin through if drilling burrs make it snug.

  • Straight-edge (flat-head) screwdriver

    The only tool you should use to tighten the band clamps.

  • Ladder

    Sized for your mounting height, footed on stable ground, with a second crew member spotting. Standard ladder safety applies; if your banner height calls for a lift, use one.

Do not bring an electric driver or drill to the clamps. All clamps must be tightened with a screwdriver only. Electric tools over-tighten the band clamp and will cause breakage. This is the most important rule in this guide — a hand-tightened clamp holds; a power-driven clamp breaks.

Step-by-Step Installation

Each banner uses two bracket assemblies — one top, one bottom. Steps 1–3 assemble a bracket; you'll do them twice per banner, then mount and hang in steps 4–6.

Step 1 — Seat the fiberglass rod in the bracket base

Place the fiberglass reinforced rod firmly into the aluminum bracket base and twist it until it passes through — keep going until the holes in the rod and bracket line up. Don't fight it straight in; the twist is what walks it through.

Step 2 — Insert the clevis pin

Push the clevis pin through the aligned holes. The bracket and rod are drilled to a tight tolerance for long life, so a snug fit is by design — if the pin doesn't pass cleanly, tap it through with the hammer or mallet to clear any drilling burrs. Snug is good; it's what keeps the arm from rattling loose over years outdoors.

Step 3 — Secure the pin with the kickout ring

Thread the kickout ring through the hole in the clevis pin to lock it in place. The ring is the keeper — with it seated, the pin can't vibrate out. Repeat Steps 1–3 for the second bracket assembly.

Step 4 — Cap the rod and mount the TOP bracket (arrow UP)

Place a protective rubber end cap on the end of the rod. Then position the top bracket at your chosen height on the pole — and check the bracket's arrow: the arrow must face UPWARD on the top bracket.

Wrap two of the 40″ stainless quick-release band clamps around the bracket and pole, and tighten them down — with the screwdriver only.

Step 5 — Measure and mount the BOTTOM bracket (arrow DOWN)

Measure down from the top bracket to set the bottom bracket's position — the spacing between the two rods is what your banner hangs on, so measure against the banner rather than eyeballing it. Mount the bottom bracket the same way (two band clamps, screwdriver only) with the arrow facing DOWNWARD.

"Why the arrows matter: the arrow placement is critical for proper tensioning. Arrows must point up at the top bracket and down at the bottom bracket — or your banners will not fit properly. If a banner won't seat or hangs slack, check the arrows before anything else."

Step 6 — Hang the banner and tie it off

Slide the banner's pole pockets over the top and bottom fiberglass rods and fasten them with a nylon tie. Then add one more: fasten the bottom grommet near the bottom pole pocket with a nylon tie as well. That last tie is easy to skip and worth never skipping — it's what keeps the banner anchored.

Step back and sight the banner: it should sit taut between the rods, square to the pole, reading cleanly from both directions.

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Installing Banners on Both Sides of the Pole (Double Sets)

Want a banner facing each direction of travel? Double sets use the same process with one change: install two bracket assemblies at the top and two at the bottom, parallel to each other on the pole. To keep each pair of brackets together, use just two band clamps to secure each pair to the pole — the clamps wrap around both brackets at once.Everything else is identical: arrows up on top, arrows down on bottom, screwdriver-only on the clamps, nylon ties on the pockets and bottom grommets.

Windy Location? Use WindSaver™ Spring-Arm Brackets

Standard bracket sets hold a banner rigid - which is exactly what you want, until the location is genuinely windy. For high-wind poles, BigSigns offers the WindSaver™ pole bracket set: the top arm is a premium fiberglass arm, and the bottom arm is a spring fiberglass arm that lets the banner give in gusts instead of fighting them. Two sizing rules before you order: WindSaver graphics should not exceed 24 square feet, and the banner must be finished with 2″ top and bottom pole pockets with #2 grommets.

What’s in the WindSaver set

  • 2 spring castings

  • Premium fiberglass arm (top) + spring fiberglass arm (bottom)

  • 4 × 40″ stainless steel bands

  • 2 large pins + 2 small pins

  • 4 screws, 1 large washer, 4 small washers

  • Tools needed: screw/nut driver and a drill

WindSaver installation, step by step

Step 1

Take out all parts and check them against the list above.

Step 2

Attach the top casting to the pole — arrow facing UP, away from the banner. Place a screw with a small washer in the top hole and drill into place (pre-drill if your pole type needs it). Repeat with the hole on the bottom of the casting.

Step 3

Band the casting to the pole. Secure it with two stainless steel bands, tighten until the bracket is held firmly, lock with a screwdriver or nut driver, and clip off excess band length.

Step 4

Insert the premium fiberglass arm into the casting. Line up the holes in the arm with the holes in the casting and secure with the small pin; before closing the small pin, attach the large pin onto it. The pin should clip below the casting.

Step 5

Slide the large washer onto the premium arm — it keeps the banner from riding up the arm.

Step 6

Measure for the lower casting. Use your banner to place the lower casting so the banner fits properly, then repeat steps 2–3 to mount it — arrow facing DOWN, away from the banner.

Step 7

Insert the spring arm into the lower casting and pin it the same way (small pin, large pin attached before closing). Here the pin should clip above the casting.

Step 8

Hang the banner. Slide the top pole pocket onto the premium arm and pin the large pin through the banner grommet. Then bend the spring arm up, slide the lower pole pocket on, and pin it through the bottom grommet.

Same arrow logic as the standard brackets: top arrow up, bottom arrow down — always away from the banner.

Maintenance, Seasonal Swaps & Care

Pole banner hardware is built to stay on the pole; the banners are built to rotate.

  • Changing banners:

    The brackets stay put. Remove the nylon ties, slide the old banner's pole pockets off the rods, slide the new banner on, and re-tie — pockets and bottom grommet, same as Step 6. Fresh nylon ties each swap.

  • Seasonal hardware check:

    When you're up the ladder for a banner change, give the install a once-over — band clamps snug (re-tighten with the screwdriver only), kickout rings seated on the clevis pins, rubber end caps in place.

  • After major storms:

    For exposed street and campus runs, a quick visual check from the ground after high winds tells you if anything needs attention.

  • Storing off-season banners:

    keep them clean and dry, rolled rather than folded, so creases don't print into the artwork before the next season.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Nearly every pole banner problem traces to one of these:

  • Tightening clamps with an electric tool.

    The #1 mistake, and the PDF-in-the-box says it for a reason: power drivers over-tighten the band clamp and will cause breakage. Screwdriver only, every clamp, every time.

  • Ignoring the arrows.

    Top bracket arrow UP, bottom bracket arrow DOWN. Get this backwards and the banner won't tension or fit properly — and no amount of pulling on the banner fixes it.

  • Forcing the clevis pin without the mallet.

    The tight tolerance is intentional. If the pin binds on drilling burrs, tap it through — don't ream the hole or swap in a different pin.

  • Guessing the bottom-bracket position.

    Measure the spacing against your actual banner before clamping the bottom bracket. Re-clamping is easy; doing it with the banner flapping in one hand is not.

  • Skipping the bottom-grommet tie.

    The pole pockets get tied and the bottom grommet gets its own nylon tie. That second tie is the difference between a banner that stays squared and one that walks.

  • Skipping the permission step on city or utility poles.

    Being asked to take down a full run of banners hurts more than any hardware mistake. Confirm pole ownership and permits first.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I install pole banners myself?

Yes — this is an Easy–Intermediate job designed for self-install. A facilities crew, city maintenance team, or campus grounds staff can do it with a hammer or mallet, a straight-edge screwdriver, and a ladder. The bracket set ships with everything else you need.

What hardware do I need to hang a pole banner?

The pole bracket set: fiberglass reinforced rods (the banner arms), aluminum bracket bases, clevis pins with kickout rings, protective rubber end caps, 40″ stainless steel quick-release band clamps, and nylon ties. It's supplied with your Dura-Last™ pole banner order, so there's nothing to source separately.

Can I use a drill or electric driver to tighten the clamps?

No — and this is the one rule to be strict about. All clamps should be tightened with a screwdriver only. Electric tools over-tighten the band clamp and will cause breakage. Hand-tight with a flat-head screwdriver is exactly the right amount of tight.

Which way do the bracket arrows face?

Top bracket: arrow UP. Bottom bracket: arrow DOWN. Arrow placement is critical for proper tensioning — reverse them and the banner won't fit properly. It's the first thing to check if a banner hangs wrong.

How do I put banners on both sides of one pole?

Use a double set: two bracket assemblies at the top and two at the bottom, mounted parallel to each other on the pole, with two band clamps securing each pair. The rest of the install is unchanged.

Do I need a permit to hang banners on street or light poles?

If the poles belong to a city, utility, or property owner — very likely yes, or at least written permission. Most cities run banner programs with their own placement rules. Build the approval into your timeline before hardware ever goes up; for campus and private-property poles, check with the facilities owner.

What size pole banner should I order?

Size is driven by your pole height, spacing, and how far the banner should project. Our pole banner sizes guide walks through standard dimensions for streets, schools, and campuses — or send us your pole details for a free mockup and we'll spec it.

How do I change banners for a new season or event?

The brackets and clamps stay on the pole. Remove the nylon ties, slide the old banner's pole pockets off the fiberglass rods, slide the new one on, and re-fasten with fresh ties — pockets plus the bottom grommet. That's why pole programs rotate artwork seasonally without re-doing hardware.

The clevis pin won't go through the holes — is something wrong?

No — the bracket and rod are drilled to a tight tolerance for long life, so a snug pin is normal. Tap it through with a hammer or mallet to clear the drilling burrs. Once the kickout ring is threaded through the pin, the assembly is locked.

Can BigSigns handle the installation for us?

Many crews self-install — that's what this hardware is designed for — but if you'd rather hand it off, mention installation when you request your free mockup and quote or call 800.790.7611, and we'll talk through options for your project.

What if my pole location gets a lot of wind?

Use WindSaver™ spring-arm pole brackets. Instead of two rigid arms, the set pairs a premium fiberglass arm on top with a spring fiberglass arm below, so the banner can give in gusts instead of fighting them. WindSaver graphics should not exceed 24 square feet, and the banner needs 2″ top and bottom pole pockets with #2 grommets.

How do WindSaver spring-arm brackets install?

Mount the top casting to the pole with screws and two stainless steel bands, arrow facing up. Insert the premium fiberglass arm and pin it, then slide on the large washer. Measure the banner to place the lower casting, mount it arrow-down, insert the spring arm and pin it. Slide the banner’s top pole pocket onto the premium arm and pin through the grommet, then bend the spring arm up, slide the lower pocket on, and pin it the same way. Full steps are in the WindSaver section above.

What size banner works with WindSaver brackets?

Do not exceed 24 square feet. The banner must be finished with 2″ top and bottom pole pockets with #2 grommets so the arms and pins can secure it.

Order Pole Banners That Ship Ready to Install

Every Dura-Last™ double-sided pole banner pairs with the bracket hardware covered in this guide — so what arrives is a complete, crew-installable package, not a printing job plus a hardware scavenger hunt.

• Request a Free Mockup & Quote — see your artwork on your poles before you commit, at no cost.

• Call 800.790.7611 to talk through pole count, sizes, and single vs. double sets.

• Choose your banner: Dura-Last™ Athletic Pole Banners for schools, colleges, and athletic campuses, or Dura-Last™ Commercial Pole Banners for streets, districts, and events.

• Planning the creative? Start with the pole banner sizes guide and see why pole banners punch above their weight in event marketing.

Every order ships with free ground shipping — and if your project also includes fencing, dugouts, or concrete walls, our Windscreen, DuraTrac, and BlockWrap installation guides cover those installs the same way.