Install GuideDuraFlex™ Scoreboard Graphics
Printed fabric tensions into an aluminum frame with Tension Clips — no adhesive, no grommets, no sag.
DuraFlex™ scoreboard graphics don't bolt or stick on — the printed graphic is a piece of flexible sign fabric that stretches into an extruded aluminum tension-channel frame and locks in place with Tension Clips. No adhesive, no grommets, and no traditional banner sag. The result is a taut, flat, professional scoreboard face you can swap out season after season. This guide walks through the full process: sizing the fabric, marking and attaching the tension clips, and tensioning the graphic into the frame. Plan on a two-person job for anything larger than a few feet, and read all the way through once before you start.
DuraFlex frames come in two families, and the family determines how much extra fabric your graphic needs and how far apart the clips go. Confirm which one you have before cutting anything.
1-1/2" Fascia (#2094), Dual (#2065), 2" Retro (#2112), and Dual Divider (#2142). Add 1-1/2" of fabric to all four sides (3" total to both the height and width of the assembled frame). When a Dual Divider is used, measure from the center of the divider.
Bleed Fascia (#2092), Tension (#2085), Bleed Retro (#2105), and Flat Bleed Retro (#2104). Add 3" of fabric to all four sides (6" total to both the height and width).
How many tension clips? Figure a minimum of two clips per perimeter foot. Space them 6" on center on straight frames and 5" on center on angled frames. Worked example: a 12' × 6' scoreboard face has a 36-foot perimeter → 36 × 12" = 432" → 432 ÷ 6 = 72 clips on a straight frame, or 432 ÷ 5 = 87 clips on an angled frame.
Cut the printed fabric to the trimmed-to-size dimension from the sizing rule above: your assembled frame size plus 1-1/2" per side (straight) or 3" per side (angled). Measure twice — this margin is what the clips grip, so a short cut can't be recovered.
Lay the fabric graphic side up — the placement line always goes on the graphic side. Draw a line 1-1/2" in from the trimmed edge on all four sides. Tip: a straight frame can be set on the fabric and traced around its outside perimeter to create this line (just remember to leave the extra 1-1/2" of fabric outside it); an angled frame works as a straightedge. Large faces: for anything over 10', move the placement line inward about 1/4" for every additional 5' — for example, a 15' × 15' face gets its clip line roughly 1-3/4" in from the trimmed edge.
At each corner, cut away an approximately 2-1/2" square notch from the fabric edge and discard it. This lets the corners wrap cleanly without bunching.
Each Tension Clip has two parts: the Tension Clip Body and the Tension Clip Mandrel. Working graphic-side up:
Set the clips 6" on center on the Dual, 2" Retro, and 1-1/2" Fascia frames; 5" on center on the Tension, Bleed Retro, Flat Bleed Retro, Dual Divider, and Bleed Fascia frames. You can fine-tune a clip's position without removing it — slide the mandrel in the direction you want, then slide the body to match. To take a clip off entirely, pull the body straight off, away from the fabric and mandrel.
Lay the assembled frame flat with the extruded tension channel facing up, then lay the clipped fabric over it, graphic side up. Insert the clips into the channel, working around the frame and just starting each clip one or two clicks on the first pass. Then go around a second time with the tension tool, driving the clips down to full tension. Do not over-tension — apply just enough for a smooth, flat face. When you need to pull the fabric to reach the channel, grasp the fold and pull the face into place; never pull directly on the flap or the clip, or the clip will pop off.
Hook the tool tip under the outside rail of the frame and slide it along the rail. With gentle, consistent pressure, press the tool's "wings" down onto any part of the clip; pushing or pulling the handle while the tip is hooked under the rail gives you the leverage to seat the clip. You can apply downward pressure to either end or the middle of a clip.
Swapping a graphic for a new season is straightforward. Insert a standard slotted screwdriver into the recess on the backside of each Tension Clip body, then rotate or tilt it to separate the clip's teeth from the frame's extruded teeth. That releases the tension and lets you pry or pull the clip up and out. Because the fabric was never glued, the frame is ready to accept the next graphic.
| Frame family | Fabric to add (per side) | Clip spacing | Clips per perimeter |
|---|---|---|---|
| Straight | 1-1/2" | 6" on center | 2 (minimum) |
| Angled | 3" | 5" on center | 2 (minimum) |
Example (12' x 6' face, 36 perimeter ft = 432"): Straight: 432 / 6 = 72 clips Angled: 432 / 5 = 87 clips
You must add 1-1/2" (straight) or 3" (angled) per side — the clips grip that margin.
Driving clips too hard distorts the face. Aim for smooth and flat, not drum-tight.
Pull the fold, not the clip, or clips pop off.
Snap one end, then the other.
Un-notched corners bunch and won't lie flat.
Fabric stretch varies by brand — for a 10' × 10' or larger face, test the stretch first with a strip of the same fabric and one clip on each end.
DuraFlex scoreboard graphics tension into an aluminum frame with clips — no adhesive, no sag, and a clean flat face. Sizing, clip spacing, and step-by-step tensioning are in our Scoreboard Graphics Installation Guide
The printed graphic is flexible fabric that tensions into an extruded aluminum frame with Tension Clips — no adhesive. You size the fabric, attach clips around the edge, then drive them into the frame's channel with a tensioning tool for a smooth, sag-free face.
Add 1-1/2" to every side on a straight tension-channel frame, or 3" to every side on an angled frame. That extra material is what the tension clips grip.
At least two per perimeter foot — spaced 6" on center on straight frames and 5" on center on angled frames. A 12' × 6' face (36 perimeter feet) needs about 72 clips on a straight frame or 87 on an angled frame.
A DuraFlex tensioning tool, a pen or marker, a razor blade or utility knife, and a standard slotted screwdriver.
Yes. Because nothing is glued, you release each clip with a slotted screwdriver in the recess on the clip's backside, lift the old graphic out, and tension a new one in.
Start every clip one or two clicks on the first pass, then go around again to bring them to full tension — and don't over-tension. Even, gradual tensioning gives the flattest face.
Yes — slide the mandrel in the direction you want to move it, then slide the clip body to match. No need to detach it.
For faces 10' × 10' or larger, move the clip placement line in about 1/4" per extra 5', and test the fabric's stretch first with a scrap strip and one clip on each end, since stretch varies by fabric brand.
Ready for a new scoreboard face? Browse and configure DuraFlex™ Athletic Scoreboard Graphics — custom-printed, tension-frame ready, and built for outdoor durability. New to scoreboard branding? Start with our Scoreboard Graphics & Signage buyer's guide.
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